The lonely tomb of lovers Tzuhola and Tayir stands on a crumbling hill just north of Korla in the Xinjiang Autonomous Region.
Tzuhola, a Uyghur princess, fell in love with Tayir, a shepherd. Her father, the King, wanted her to marry a prince and was unhappy about their relationship. The two lovers fled on horseback into these mountains, chased by the King's troops, who had orders to bring them back. In their panic, the lovers and their horse fell to their deaths. Heartbroken, the King ordered the building of a twin tomb so they could be together in the afterlife.
This tale of love challenged by authority felt like an apt introduction to Xinjiang, China's most westerly region. I found it difficult to decide whether to travel there. On one hand, I was aware of the complex political situation. On the other hand, one of my favourite work colleagues grew up in Urumqi and implored me frequently to experience the region's natural beauty and the warmth of its people. The chance to travel to a part of the country that very few international visitors see eventually swayed me.
To help me navigate the complexities of travelling in the region, and fully immerse myself in its landscapes, I decided to take a guided trip with a Beijing-based hiking group. Our trip started in Korla and travelled west along roads that roughly followed ancient Silk Road routes until we finally arrived in Kashgar. We took in ruined Buddhist temples, otherworldly landscapes and small dusty towns where we visited mosques and historic landmarks. Throughout our journey, we were accompanied by our 'government escort' who would decide each day whether our planned itinerary was permitted or not.
Despite some changes in the schedule (including a night's wilderness camping that abruptly turned into a night in an anonymous business hotel) we were able to explore areas that few foreigners venture to. We interacted with locals, ate amazing food (a loooot of lamb!) and experienced a region where security measures were notably present - from frequent police patrols and staffed checkpoints to fortified service stations.
I went to the region seeking natural beauty and found it - alongside a complex reality where stunning landscapes exist within a carefully managed environment. Like the lovers' tomb itself, Xinjiang's beauty comes with layers of history and meaning that aren't immediately visible to visitors.
This article originally appeared on my LinkedIn profile
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